As an expert in exploring the intersection of travel, culture, and the natural world, I find that few places offer the raw, unfiltered experience quite like Backpacking Wyoming. Specifically, the Wind River Range calls to the soul, a vast expanse of rugged peaks, alpine lakes, and profound solitude. This journey, shared with my friend Chip Roser, takes us deep into the heart of this majestic wilderness, exploring routes both classic and less traveled, challenging ourselves against the elements, and soaking in the breathtaking vistas that define the Wyoming backcountry.
Our adventure begins at the Big Sandy Campground trailhead. Arriving on a late August Sunday, the sight of countless cars and trucks packed into every available space confirms the growing popularity of this access point, especially for those heading toward the iconic Cirque of the Towers. It’s a reminder that even in vast wilderness areas, certain gems draw significant attention, particularly after decades of inspiring backpackers. The scene felt busier than any I’d witnessed here in 30 years of visiting this range.
Despite the trailhead crowds, the initial stretch of trail leading towards Pyramid Lake offers stunning scenery. We pass dozens of fellow hikers and backpackers early on, all drawn by the relatively gentle start and the promise of spectacular lake views nestled beneath towering granite walls. As one astute backpacker we met observed, the campsites along this valley trail are universally gorgeous, allowing hikers to choose their slice of paradise. However, I knew that true solitude, the kind that defines the essence of Backpacking Wyoming, lay further ahead, requiring a bit more effort and venturing off the main routes.
Pyramid Lake, our destination for the first night, sits in a dramatic stone bowl at 10,571 feet, framed by Pyramid Peak and the imposing face of Mount Hooker. Despite forecasts warning of thunderstorms, the evening remains calm, the air mild. Dark clouds drift overhead, creating a constantly shifting canvas of light and shadow across the surrounding cliffs and peaks.
As dusk settles, the sky transforms. Stepping out of my tent near Pyramid Lake, I am met with a breathtaking display. Millions of stars pulsate overhead, constellations I recognize and many I don’t filling the void. The Milky Way stretches across the heavens, a celestial river of light. The stillness is profound; not a breath of wind stirs the air, and the silence feels absolute, save for the distant whisper of water.
It’s these moments of quiet immersion that truly capture the spirit of Backpacking Wyoming. Beyond the popular spots, the wilderness offers an unparalleled sense of peace and connection to the natural world. The Wind River Range, in particular, has been a recurring destination for me over the past three decades. This marks my fourth consecutive summer backpacking here, building on a history of at least eight prior trips. The range’s proximity to my home, despite being several hours away, makes it a consistently accessible and rewarding challenge.
On this trip, Chip and I aimed to explore new territory for him and fill in some gaps in my own extensive knowledge of the southern Winds. We embarked on a meandering four-day route designed to cross four high passes along the Continental Divide. This journey would lead us past numerous alpine lakes, each beautiful enough to warrant a campsite, though we planned to spend just three nights out.
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The goal was not just a physical traverse but a deeper engagement with the landscape, pushing past the initial layers of popularity to uncover the raw, untamed beauty that defines Backpacking Wyoming. The initial views were just a preview of the grandeur that awaited us as we ascended higher into the range, leaving the relative bustle of the lower trails behind.
Our second morning begins with the predawn light igniting the clouds above Pyramid Lake. We start hiking early, taking an off-trail route designed to be more direct to Hailey Pass than backtracking. This route also strategically positions us for an optional scramble up the 12,030-foot summit of Pyramid Peak.
The ascent provides a hawk’s-eye view, offering a stunning panorama of the valley we hiked yesterday and the long, undulating arc of the Continental Divide stretching into the distance. As we descend from Pyramid Peak towards 11,160-foot Hailey Pass, the wind, which had picked up in the morning, intensifies. It funnels through the pass with incredible force, strong enough to literally shove us off the trail at times.
Crossing the pass, the wind continues to buffet us as we carefully pick our way down countless short switchbacks. The trail here is steep and covered in loose scree and pebbles, requiring cautious foot placement. Even after reaching the valley floor below the pass, the wind remains a strong presence, a constant reminder of the wildness of this high alpine environment.
Emerging onto the east side of the Divide beyond Hailey Pass, we join the Bears Ears Trail. This section is a feast for the eyes, with towering granite cliffs and monoliths rising dramatically around us – a true paradise for alpine rock climbers. The trail climbs above the sparkling Grave Lake, then descends to its shore, winding through forests, meadows, and even a sandy beach.
We follow the gentle, picturesque valley of the South Fork Wind River before turning onto the Washakie Pass Trail. This part of the journey showcases the varied terrain encountered while Backpacking Wyoming‘s high country, from dramatic peaks and passes to serene valleys and lakeshores.
At Washakie Lake, situated at 10,365 feet, we find a suitable campsite, set back the required distance from the water’s edge. Despite encountering only a few other backpackers during our seven-hour hike from Pyramid Lake, several more arrive to camp nearby later in the evening. However, the expansive nature of the area ensures everyone maintains ample space and privacy, keeping camps mostly out of sight and earshot of one another.
The wind, which had been a factor throughout the day, gains ferocity as evening falls. Great gusts of air, like cannonballs fired from above, tear through our camp with a roar, violently shaking our solo tents. While our tents hold up, the wind is relentless, making sleep an elusive quarry and underscoring the raw power of the elements you can face while Backpacking Wyoming.
Even after a night of intense wind, the gusts continue as we leave Washakie Lake early on our third morning. We begin the climb towards the highest point of our trip, the 11,611-foot Washakie Pass. Swirling and buffeting us from all sides, the wind occasionally hits us with such force that we stumble, requiring us to brace ourselves.
Dressed in layers against the chill and wind under a gray sky, we joke about being lifted off the ground and blown back to Washakie Lake. Fortunately, we avoid this fate, pushing through the headwind to cross the Continental Divide back to the west side. The descent from Washakie Pass takes us through beautiful alpine meadows, dotted with wildflowers and boulders, creating a stunning visual mosaic.
Approximately 1,200 feet below Washakie Pass, we reach the Hailey Pass Trail junction, returning to the valley floor where we had been the previous day. Here, the wind abruptly vanishes, and the sun shines warmly. We shed layers, grateful for the warmth and the respite from the relentless gusts encountered at the higher elevations. This rapid change in conditions is typical when Backpacking Wyoming‘s mountains, where weather can shift dramatically and quickly.
After rock-hopping across Washakie Creek, we begin ascending the Shadow Lake Trail. This broad, nearly flat valley is incredibly scenic, with the creek playfully tumbling over rocks and cascades or flowing smoothly through bends – a dancer on a stage. While the towering mountains and serene lakes often steal the show in the Wind River Range, the creeks and rivers play vital supporting roles, their sounds and movements adding life to the landscape.
Further up the valley, the “back side” of the Cirque of the Towers comes into view, a long wall of jagged peaks seeming to snarl at the sky. The maintained trail ends near Shadow Lake, where we pick up a well-worn use trail leading upwards to Billy’s Lake, situated above 10,600 feet.
Following the path along Billy’s lakeshore and continuing up the narrow alpine valley, walled by dramatic granite formations, Chip remarks that this might be the prettiest valley we’ve seen on the trip. The faint trail leads us past Barren Lake, and as we turn a corner, we are met with a view overlooking Texas Lake and the horseshoe of cliffs and talus that form the head of this basin.
Above Texas Lake rises a dauntingly steep slope of talus and scree – essentially a slow-moving rockslide. This is the ascent to Texas Pass. We can see nearly a dozen people at various points on their arduous climb up this massive rockpile. Occasional cairns and a visible, if indistinct, path worn into the loose rock by previous backpackers guide our way upward.
We reach Texas Pass, perched over 11,400 feet, our second pass above 11,000 feet for the day. After the weather concerns and shifting clouds throughout the day, we feared our view of the famous Cirque of the Towers would be obscured upon arrival. However, our timing is perfect. An unobstructed panorama of that iconic skyline of granite monoliths, arrayed in a long, unbroken arc, unfolds before us. This view, one of the most stunning in all of Backpacking Wyoming, is truly unforgettable.
I have hiked through the Cirque several times since my first visit three decades ago, including on the challenging Wind River High Route. That route took me and friends into the Cirque via the common approach over Jackass Pass, now visible across the basin from our vantage point. We exited via an off-trail route over New York Pass, which lies geographically close to Texas Pass but requires a different traverse along the wriggling Continental Divide.
While repeated visits might diminish the initial shockwave of seeing the Cirque, approaching it from this new perspective via Texas Pass resurrects some of that original thrill I felt walking over Jackass Pass for the first time. A good friend, who has backpacked in countless incredible places, including with me, traversed Texas Pass just last year and later wrote, calling it “the best view I’ve ever had from a pass.” While perhaps influenced by recency bias, it wasn’t hyperbole. The view of the Cirque and the descent from Texas Pass truly deserves recognition as one of the finest overlooks of a soul-stirring mountain vista in America.
Chip Roser descending from Texas Pass into the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range, Wyoming
An unmaintained but surprisingly well-defined dirt path, steep in places but less so than the climb up, leads us down towards Lonesome Lake. Minutes after reaching the lake’s edge, the sky suddenly darkens. Thunder rumbles, followed swiftly by lightning. The rain starts lightly, almost deceptively, but when a gray veil obscures the peaks, I urge Chip to set up a tent immediately.
Seconds after we finish our hurried pitch, the rain begins to pound the tent walls with incredible force. The drumming is so loud we can barely hear each other speak. However, the tent provides a dry sanctuary as we wait out the thunderstorm for about 30 minutes. As quickly as it arrived, the storm passes.
We pack up the damp tent and resume hiking. The clouds break, mostly giving way to blue sky and warm sunshine. We climb again, repeatedly turning back to take in the awe-inspiring panorama of the Cirque. Not long after our brief refuge, we reach Jackass Pass at 10,760 feet, marking our third crossing of the Continental Divide today and the fourth of this Backpacking Wyoming trip. The feeling of accomplishment and the visual rewards are immense, making the challenges of the journey well worth the effort.
Frequently Asked Questions About Backpacking Wyoming
Q: Is backpacking in Wyoming always this windy?
A: While wind is common, especially at high elevations and passes in mountain ranges like the Wind Rivers, the intensity varies greatly. Our experience with the ferocious gusts was significant but not necessarily typical for every day. Be prepared for windy conditions in the high country.
Q: How crowded are backpacking trails in Wyoming?
A: Popular trailheads and destinations like the Cirque of the Towers via Big Sandy can be very crowded, especially during peak season (July-August). However, as this trip shows, you can often find significant solitude by venturing deeper into the wilderness or exploring less-traveled routes, which is a key aspect of Backpacking Wyoming.
Q: What is the best time of year for backpacking in the Wind River Range?
A: Late July through September is generally considered the prime window. Earlier in the summer, you may encounter significant snowpack at higher elevations. By late September, conditions can quickly turn cold and snowy. Always check current trail and weather conditions before your trip.
Q: What kind of gear is essential for backpacking in Wyoming’s mountains?
A: Sturdy waterproof boots, reliable rain gear (jacket and pants), warm layers (down or synthetic jacket), a good quality tent capable of withstanding wind and rain, bear canister (often required or highly recommended), map and compass/GPS, and water filtration/treatment are all crucial. Preparation for variable weather is key.
Q: How difficult is backpacking in the Wind River Range?
A: Difficulty varies by route. Valley trails can be moderate, while crossing high passes involves significant elevation gain, steep terrain, and potential exposure to weather. Routes like the one described, crossing multiple high passes, are strenuous and require good physical fitness and backpacking experience. Research specific routes carefully when planning your Backpacking Wyoming adventure.
This journey through the Wind River Range exemplifies the profound rewards of Backpacking Wyoming. It’s a land of dramatic landscapes, challenging climbs, serene alpine lakes, and the potential for true wilderness solitude. While some popular spots see significant traffic, the vastness of the state’s wild areas means that unforgettable adventures away from the crowds are always possible for those willing to seek them out. If you’re looking for an experience that tests your limits and feeds your soul, exploring the backcountry of Wyoming should be at the top of your list.
A backpacker above Macon Lake and Washakie Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
Chip Roser enjoying the dawn light at our campsite by Pyramid Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking from Big Sandy north on the Continental Divide Trail toward Dads Lake, Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the CDT past Dads Lake while Backpacking Wyoming in the Wind River Range.
A backpacker hiking the CDT toward Pyramid Peak in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
Marms Lake and Pyramid Peak (left) in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the Pyramid Lake Trail in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker campsite at Pyramid Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking around Pyramid Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking above Pyramid Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A hiker at Pyramid Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
The ramp from Pyramid Lake to Hailey Pass in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the ramp from Pyramid Lake to Hailey Pass in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
Hailey Pass and the upper Twin Lakes in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A hiker on Pyramid Peak in the Wind River Range, Wyoming, enjoying the view while Backpacking Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking north of Hailey Pass in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the Washakie Pass Trail in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking north of Hailey Pass in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker looking toward the Baptiste Lake basin in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A waterfall along the Bears Ears Trail in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the Bears Ears Trail above Grave Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A beach along the Bears Ears Trail on Grave Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
The outlet creek of Grave Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
Grave Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the Bears Ears Trail along the South Fork Wind River in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking the Washakie Pass Trail in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A campsite at Washakie Lake in the Wind River Range, Wyoming, for Backpacking Wyoming trips.
A backpacker hiking toward Washakie Pass in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker hiking over Washakie Pass in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
A backpacker descending from Texas Pass into the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.